Tsunamis Steven N . Ward Institute of Tectonics , University of California at Santa Cruz
نویسنده
چکیده
GLOSSARY dispersive: Characteristic of waves whose velocity of propagation depends on wave frequency. The shape of a dispersive wave packet changes as it moves along. eigenfunction: Functional shape of the horizontal and vertical components of wave motion versus depth in the ocean for a specific wave frequency. geometrical spreading: Process of amplitude reduction resulting from the progressive expansion of a wave from its source. shoal: Process of waves coming ashore. Shoaling waves slow, shorten their wavelength, and grow in height. wavenumber: Wavenumber k equals 2π divided by wavelength λ. Large wavenumbers associate with short waves and small wavenumbers associate with long waves.
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